GOTS NEWS November 2023 🌊

GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD

ECOLOGY & SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

GOTS NEWS • November 2023

Join #BehindTheSeams/#NahtlosNachhaltig and Empower Consumers with GOTS!

We invite all GOTS-certified companies to participate in the ongoing consumer education campaign, #BehindTheSeams/#NahtlosNachhaltig, which launched November 13, 2023. This international, multi-language campaign is currently educating consumers about the GOTS value chain and sustainable textile practices. By participating, you'll have the opportunity to showcase your commitment to sustainability and raise awareness of your GOTS Certification.

Your Involvement Matters: By joining us, you'll contribute to the campaign's success and help educate consumers about the importance of sustainable textiles. For more details, contact us. We'll provide you with all the information you need to get started. Your participation will help us promote organic textiles and highlight the GOTS community's dedication to a greener future. Don't miss out on this chance to be part of #BehindTheSeams and #NahtlosNachhaltig!

→ Contact us for more information

→ Explore the Campaign landing page

GOTS Introduces the Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities

GOTS proudly introduces the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities. This handbook provides clear guidance for GOTS Certified Entities on integrating due diligence processes into their operations, ensuring compliance with domestic due diligence laws such as the German Supply Chain Law, French Vigilance Law, and upcoming EU legislation. The handbook has been produced in consultation with the Hague-based UpRights Foundation.

It marks a pivotal advancement in promoting sustainability, human rights, and ethical business practices within the textile industry. According to Ruslan Alyamkin, Responsible for Standard Development and Implementation (Social Responsibility) at GOTS, 'The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook represents a significant progression following the incorporation of Due Diligence Criteria in the latest GOTS 7.0 version. It is a testament to GOTS' commitment to supporting Certified Entities in their journey towards required responsible business practices. The Handbook underscores GOTS' dedication to promoting human rights, social justice, and environmental integrity'.

The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities draws from internationally recognised frameworks, including the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector (2018) and the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGPs).

→ Download the GO TS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities here

GOTS Pilot Project Expands Opportunities for Small-Scale Operators

GOTS has taken a groundbreaking step with the Controlled Supply Chain Scheme Pilot Project (CSCS), aimed at simplifying GOTS certification for small operators. Launched in 2022, this innovative project works to remove the obstacles that have often deterred them from pursuing this esteemed recognition.

The CSCS has been strategically designed to streamline the certification process, reducing costs and administrative complexities for small-scale operations. Under the CSCS framework, a supply chain comprising a minimum of eight and a maximum of thirty small-scale facilities, each with twenty or fewer workers, can collectively attain GOTS certification after a comprehensive risk assessment by their Certification Body (CB). This groundbreaking initiative not only eases the path to certification but also emphasises the importance of innovation, sustainability, and community connections within the textile industry.

GOTS is committed to further refining and validating the CSCS requirements, with the aim of implementing them fully for all markets in the future.

Renewed Proficiency Test Ensures GMO-Free Organic Cotton

GOTS, the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Textile Exchange, are pleased to announce the renewal of the international ISO IWA 32:2019 proficiency test for a third year, under technical support from Wageningen Food Safety Research.

This initiative offers an updated list of global laboratories proficient in GMO testing per the ISO IWA 32:2019 protocol. The protocol establishes a common language for labs to screen for potential genetically modified cotton in the organic cotton value chain.

In 2023, twenty-seven labs across Europe, Asia, and North America successfully completed the proficiency test, expanding the list of qualified labs. This provides crucial clarity to stakeholders in the organic cotton sector, supporting its rapid global growth.

The commitment to transparency and integrity in organic cotton production is evident in mandatory GMO testing within the GOTS and Organic Content Standard (OCS) supply chain and OCA's Farm program. This ensures GMO-free organic cotton, aligning with industry standards and best practices.

→ View the list of labs that passed the ISO IWA32 2019 Proficiency Test in 2023

Empowering Legal Compliance for GOTS Certified Entities

With over 20 years of empowering sustainable value chains, GOTS remains committed to its role in facilitating adherence to regulations. In response to the evolving landscape of supply chain laws across the globe, GOTS is taking proactive measures to assist certified companies in ensuring legal compliance.

Here are the key steps GOTS has taken:

1. Enhanced Due Diligence in GOTS: The recently updated Version 7.0 of GOTS includes extended requirements for due diligence, aligning with the core tenets of these laws.

2. Transaction Certificates for finished GOTS Goods: Starting on September 4, 2023, GOTS introduced a provision that allows brands and retailers to obtain Transaction Certificates (TCs) for all finished GOTS Goods, even if the items themselves do not bear GOTS labelling. This provision dictates that Certification Bodies are exclusively authorised to issue TCs for finished GOTS goods that will be sold in retail.

3. Retroactive TCs: TCs may be granted for products that have been dispatched and received up to 3 months preceding the announcement of this concession.

These measures reflect GOTS' commitment to sustainability, legal compliance, and supporting the success of certified entities. GOTS remains a reliable partner in navigating the changing landscape of supply chain laws, promoting responsible practices, and fostering a sustainable future.

GOTS Advocates 'Organic' Inclusion in EU Textile Regulation

In a crucial step forward, GOTS has responded to the EU Textile Regulation 1007/2011 consultation by advocating for the inclusion of 'organic'. This initiative, following seven years of relentless lobbying, marks a significant advancement in promoting responsible and sustainable textile production.

Voluntary sustainability standards (VSS) serve as fundamental guidelines for various industries, ensuring that products do not harm people or the environment. For the textile industry, organic fibres have emerged as eco-friendly options. However, unlike agriculture, textile goods lack legal protection for the term 'organic', leading to rampant greenwashing practices.

'GOTS has long voiced concerns regarding the absence of legal protection for the term "organic" for textiles', said GOTS Policy and Legal Advisor, Herbert Ladwig. 'Defining "organic" as a protected term for textiles in the EU Textile Regulation would secure accurate information to consumers, combat greenwashing, and support green public procurement.'

This advocacy aligns with IFOAM Organics Europe's Position Paper, which proposes a clear definition of 'organic' within the Textile Regulation. Under this definition, textiles labelled as 'organic' must adhere to recognised organic farming and processing standards, promoting transparency and trust.

While GOTS' response to the consultation represents a significant leap forward, the journey toward a more sustainable textile industry is ongoing. Continued pressure is essential to ensure that sustainability remains a focal point. Together, GOTS and IFOAM OE strive to usher in a greener, more responsible future for textiles.

GOTS Earns Top Sustainability Rating from Siegelklarheit

We are pleased to announce that GOTS has been rated as a 'very good choice' by Siegelklarheit, an initiative of the German federal government. With a focus on Sustainable Development Goal #12 (Responsible consumption and production), Siegelklarheit is dedicated to simplifying sustainable purchasing decisions for consumers by providing clear and comprehensive information about credible seals and labels.

The recognition is based on Siegelklarheit's Sustainability Standards Comparison Tool (SSCT), a robust methodology developed by leading experts. The tool assesses over 300 criteria for various labels across ecological and social dimensions, with a straightforward 3-star rating system that indicates the environmental and social merits of a label. Achieving this 'very good choice' rating reflects unwavering commitment to high sustainability standards within the textile industry. This achievement reinforces our mission to support and promote organic textiles for a more sustainable future.

→ See the listing at Siegelklarheit

Upholding Certification Integrity and Transparency

In recent weeks, our community has received a surge of suspicious emails from questionable sources, casting doubt on the legitimacy of organic certification systems, including GOTS. Some falsely claim to be from a senior editor of a trade publication, while others include alarming threats targeting GOTS staff and their families. In light of these developments, we would like to reaffirm our steadfast commitment to certification integrity:

• GOTS encourages transparency and invites individuals with information on potential fraud to use our official complaints procedure.
• GOTS maintains a rigorous system of checks and balances to ensure compliance with GOTS standards for all participants, from smallest certified company to largest Certification Body (CBs). • GOTS diligently reviews all complaints, collaborates with partners, and conducts comprehensive investigations to resolve issues.
• GOTS takes swift action against wrongdoers when evidence emerges. The GOTS system goes beyond industry standards, ensuring that only authentic organic products bear the coveted GOTS label. In 2023, three companies were banned from GOTS, and TCs were withdrawn.
• GOTS prioritises transparency, making the list of banned companies and reasons for the bans publicly available.

European Parliament Focuses on Organic Textiles and Greenwashing

IFOAM Organics Europe organised an event at the European Parliament on greenwashing - textiles and food were under the spotlight. Organic textiles can help address the challenge of greenwashing and support the drive for sustainability in the textile industry. The event, on November 7, 2023, was an integral part of GOTS’ mission to secure proper recognition of organic fibre and textiles as a clear pathway to meet the EU Green Claims Directive and stop greenwashing. This initiative aligns with IFOAM Organics Europe's Position on Organic Textiles, GOTS’ membership of ISEAL, and collaborative efforts with other NGOs and organisations in Europe, such as RAL.

The room was full, with 40 people, including brands and retailers, MEPs, DG ENV, Fairtrade International, EEB, BEUC and many others.

Christopher Stopes, GOTS Representative to the EU, was very pleased to attend the event and said ‘This meeting, at the European Parliament, represents a crucial step towards promoting transparency in the textile industry, combating greenwashing, and advancing sustainability through organic. It provides an opportunity to drive positive change and raise awareness about the importance of organic textiles'.

MEP Petros Kokkalis, MEP Marle Galle and MEP Cyrus Engerer sponsored the event, and spoke eloquently of the need to stop greenwashing and provide consumers and citizens with accurate and honest information.

The position of GOTS and IFOAM OE was made clear. There was a positive and supportive response. GOTS will continue to work with this platform alongside IFOAM OE.

→ Stay tuned for more information in future newsletters.

Meet GOTS

Morocco FashionTex Style, Casablanca, Morocco, 15-17 November 2023
Join GOTS Representative in Africa, Muktar Dodo, for this industry-wide event in Morocco.

→ Find out more here
ChromaTexChem, Mumbai, India, 19-20 December, 2023
Join GOTS Representative in South Asia, Ganesh Kasekar, for this unique exhibition of colourants and chemicals for textiles and related applications

→ Learn more about the event here

Follow GOTS on LinkedIn to stay up-to-date on upcoming events!

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