A Conversation with 2 GOTS Approved Consultants
What is your role as a GOTS Certified Consultant?
Katharina Schaus: I see my most important role as a "mediator" between the standard setter (GOTS), the standard users (traders, producer, manufacturers) and the certification bodies as well as accreditation bodies. I very much hope to be able to encourage and guide the requirements, processes, further developments for all involved "parties" in the GOTS-system as best as possible. Since I understand GOTS from all angles, I see myself in a position to support GOTS in its further development/improvement, to advise companies in their preparation for certification, but equally to accompany certification bodies in their accreditation and business development.
Ely Battalen: I work with brands and manufacturers in a two-phase process. First, I analyse if the client is prepared to pass the audit, and then secondly, I work with the client to implement procedures, processes, etc., needed to bring them into compliance.
What might a company or brand need to do or think about before they can achieve (apply for?) certification?
KS: Companies need to be clear about their sustainability goals and consider whether GOTS certification is a suitable instrument to implement their own goals. They need to study the standard/requirements in order to be able to determine whether they can comply with them at all. That certification means a lot of documentation is not clear to many. Nor that certification means independent quality assurance and that a fair budget must be available for this service provided by the certification bodies. On the other hand, certificates cannot simply be “bought”, no - they have to be elaborated. Thus, it must also be conscious that time and willingness for documentation and adjustments is necessary.
EB: Being certified to GOTS is not only about organic fibre, but the standard covers social and environmental aspects, as well as the need for a high level of inventory control.
Do you have any advice for a business that is considering getting certified or introducing certified products?
KS: It requires know-how to get certified or to include certified products in the portfolio. This know-how must come from somewhere. The companies can try to build it up effortfully on ¬their own. Or they have the option to call in us approved consultants as supporters, which makes the processes and implementation more profound and much easier. The GOTS system is demanding and thus there is plenty of potential for errors with possibly result in unpleasant consequences. To avoid mistakes and associated consequences, I can highly recommend the involvement of the consultants. In addition, I think it is very important that companies strive for certification out of conviction and not because pressure and demands are imposed from outside. Then, they will make a successful use of certification and their certified products.
EB: Contact a certified consultant!
One source of change in the textile processing industry is the constant improvement of the science and technology involved. What are some of the significant changes you’ve seen? How do those changes impact certification?
EB: One shift I’ve noticed recently is the replacement of workers with technology/robotics. This can mean the employment of fewer workers but also increased safety.
KS: I find the possibility of DNA tagging on cotton fibres a very groundbreaking development, especially in light of issues such as GMO contamination and organic fraud. This technology offers a solution to these problems and at the same time an innovative traceability tool. Herewith a method is available for the certification, which allows to secure and trace back some requirements even better, which is not used obligatorily until now. If all organic cotton were marked with the DNA tracers, the assurance of origin would be greatly improved and there would be reliable data on available quantities of certified fiber and materials, which currently do not exist.
But another, not technical related issue will have a significant impact on certification. There will be a flood of new laws/regulations especially for the textile industry, which have to be implemented already in the next years - supply chain law / due diligence law, EU strategy for sustainable and recyclable textiles in Europe, new waste regulations, etc. Certification must also be able to provide evidence of compliance with these laws/regulations. If this succeeds, then certification will continue to gain enormously in importance and can therefore expect a large increase of demand in the coming years.
What are some misconceptions about certification and what should people know?
KS: The standards / requirements apply equally to all companies, whether in Asia or in Europe. No exception or individual adjustment can or will be made for anyone individually. Furthermore, the job of the certification bodies is to verify compliance with all requirements, but not to develop the standards or make adjustments for individuals. In other words, this means, certification bodies are not in the position to offer consulting services as well as sourcing services. But many companies expect these kind of services from certifiers and are annoyed when they do not receive advice. This is exactly why it made sense for GOTS to integrate independent, approved consultants into its system. In my opinion, this significantly improves implementation and further development. It also makes companies feel satisfied and comforted if they also have a resource for guidance.
Certification is more credible than self-statements. In addition, GOTS as an independent certification system is by far less expensive than setting up an own sustainability program and/or sustainable seal. GOTS is an excellently established independent standard with a number of benefits. Quite reasonably, GOTS is called the most recommendable standard in the field of natural fibers. GOTS has now grown to over 12,000 certified companies, because this standard managed to harmonize with numerous other schemes in the early 2000s. The strength of GOTS is that the requirements are set across the entire value chain, covering social and environmental aspects with high standards. Of course, a high standard is not always easy to be achieved, but I am pleased when many companies approach me so that I can support them in the implementation and clarification of all concerns.
EB: A frequent misconception is a client believing that by having a Transaction Certificate from their supplier, they are abiding by the standard and can then make label claims.
More information about Katharina and Ely can be found at their websites:
Katharina Schaus website - http://www.itfits.de
Ely Battalen website - www.ewbconsultingllc.com
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Media FAQ
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What is GOTS in a nutshell?
- GOTS is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres.
- GOTS includes both ecological and social criteria.
- GOTS is backed up by independent certification.
- Every single step – from field to fashion - must be certified in order for the final product to carry the GOTS label.
- GOTS is an independent, self-funded, non-profit organisation.
- In this way, the GOTS puts an end to greenwashing.
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How is GOTS different to other standards/labels in the market?
GOTS is a comprehensive standard that makes a ‘full product claim’. It sets detailed environmental and social criteria throughout the entire textile supply chain - from field to fashion.
Many other standards/certifications only trace the organic fibre flow throughout the textile supply chain. This allows an organic ‘fibre claim’ in the final textile product but without any requirement to meet environmental or social criteria in processing.
GOTS sets the benchmark for an international common understanding of environmentally friendly production systems and social accountability in the organic textile sector.
Find out more on how GOTS compares to others certifications/labels.
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How many companies are GOTS certified?
Over 12,000 certified facilities (+19% to 2020) were reported in 2021, despite the continuing limitations of the COVID-19 pandemic.
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In how many countries is GOTS active?
GOTS is a global standard with certified facilities in 79 countries. GOTS Representatives are located in all major markets across the globe.
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When was GOTS developed?
The development of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) started in 2002 when representatives of organic cotton producers, the textile industry, consumers, standard organisations and certifiers discussed the need for a harmonised organic textile standard that would be globally recognised. If you would like to find out more about our history, please click here.
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What is GOTS’s business model? How does GOTS finance itself?
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Does GOTS certify raw material such as organic cotton or wool?
Organic fibre production is not directly covered by the GOTS certification system, as GOTS itself does not set standards for organic fibre cultivation. Instead, the cultivation of organic fibres is under the scope of organic farming standards, many of them defined by national governments.
For organic fibre production, a certification to the IFOAM Family of Standards for the relevant scope of production is required. IFOAM has its own accreditation system. The standards approved under the IFOAM family of standards are officially endorsed as organic and include both private and government regulations.
A textile product carrying the GOTS label must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres, a product with the label grade grade 'organic' must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres.
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GOTS Revision
GOTS Revision
GOTS is a dynamic standard, we foster constant progress towards the development of better textile processing methods. Every three years a revision process takes place in which GOTS collaborates with international stakeholders. Find out more about our comprehensive and transparent revision process below.
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Revision Process
Principles of the Revision Process - Stakeholder Input
GOTS is backed up by stakeholder-based decision bodies/technical committees, which ensure that the views of relevant stakeholders are considered. The GOTS-approved certification bodies are also actively involved in the GOTS revision process through representation on the Standards Revision Committee, as are other industry stakeholders.
Revised Process for Standard Revisions
The revision process followed the Standard Setting Procedure (SSP) which provides for the constitution of an (ad hoc) Standard Revision Committee (SRC) for each revision. The SRC consists of experts from different stakeholder groups, works on the basis of respective terms of reference and decides on the revised standard. The selection of members is based on the “GOTS Stakeholder Identification Document”.
The GOTS Standards Revision Committee 2025 has now been constituted and announced.
Public Consultation and Comments on GOTS Revision Drafts
The Global Organic Textile Standard shall undergo revision to version 8.0 commencing 2025. The timeline for the process is as follows
1. Constitution of GOTS SRCCompleted2. Release of first revision draft for public consultationOn 2nd January 2025 3. First public consultation periodCompleted on 7th March 2025 4. Deliberations of the SRC on inputs receivedApril - June 20256. Second public consultation periodJuly 20257. Deliberations by the SRC on inputs receivedAugust - October 2025 8. Finalisation of GOTS version 8.0January 20269. Release of GOTS version 8.0March 2026Reference documents :
- Standard Setting Procedure v 1.0
- Terms of Reference for GOTS Standard Revision Committee v 1.0
- GOTS Stakeholder Identification v 1.0
For more information, contact Rahul Bhajekar ().
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Public Consultation on GOTS Revision 2025
Public Consultations on the revision drafts of GOTS version 8.0 are live as of 2nd January 2025 and closed on 7th March 2025.
The revision drafts are available here for review :
- GOTS v 8.0 Draft 1.0
- Manual for the Implementation of GOTS v 8.0 Draft 1.0
- Changelog GOTS v 8.0 Draft 1.0 from v 7.0
- Changelog Manual for the Implementation of GOTS v 8.0 Draft 1.0 from v 7.2
Your inputs may please be provided only using this link : https://forms.office.com/e/3Y3bv80jVu.
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Standard Revision Committee for revision to version 8.0 - 2025
The Standard Revision Committee (SRC) for the revision to GOTS version 8.0 has been constituted after applications were solicited from interested stakeholders.
The SRC members are listed below: (some names have been withheld on request)
Narayanasamy Arunachalam
Andreas Bayer
Elizabeth Bennett
Rahul Bhajekar
Sergio Chichiarelli
Dr. Binay Kumar Choudhury
Hanna Cody
Sarah Compson
Ado Ali Danbatta
Dr. Pierfrancesco Fois
Michi Fried
Mattias Ganem
Waseem Ahmad Irshad
Kimberly Jones
Oswaldo Cardenas Krenz
Markus Krüger
Sandra Marquardt
Hong Mei (梅红)
Yoshinobu Noguchi
Marta Roche
Amitabh Singh
Elizabeth Tigan
Muazzez Ersoy Üstünel
Veronika Vilhelmová
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Please visit the following links to inform yourself on the “Conditions for the use of GOTS signs”. The documents will explain the correct use of GOTS signs on products as well as in advertisements, catalogues, webpages, websites or other publications.