Regenerative is Organic

by Jeffrey Thimm, GOTS Organic Production Specialist

As the importance of sustainability comes more into focus for the textile sector – whether for legal compliance or market demand by conscientious consumers – more concerted efforts are commendably being made by actors across the value chain to source fibres that are produced and processed in socially and ecologically responsible ways. Furthermore, the necessity of traceability to validate claims of sustainability has been well established. But with the plethora of voluntary sustainability standards emerging, it’s worth strengthening our conceptual frameworks and taking a closer look at what constitutes the lofty pursuit of “regenerative agriculture”.

REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE IS NOT A NEW CONCEPT -
IT HAS BEEN A CENTRAL PILLAR OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE SYSTEMS ACROSS THE GLOBE AND HUMAN HISTORY, FOR WHICH STRATEGIES AND METHODS HAVE BEEN EVOLVING WITH THE DISTINCT AIM OF INCREASING SOIL FERTILITY AND FOOD SECURITY.

The specific practices differ depending on ecological and social context, but regenerative agriculture is united in its purpose – to reverse soil degradation, improve agroecological resilience, and sustainably provide food, fiber and fuel. Aside from repairing and revitalizing degraded landscapes, it is now additionally tasked with halting and reversing greenhouse gas emissions and increasing resilience to climate change.
Fortunately, the rising interest in regenerative agriculture has also been illuminating the central role of the farmer in our global economy, and how our sourcing practices impact the sustainability of the very foundations of society. It’s not just about textiles and fibers, it’s also about our posture towards ethical commerce and our willingness to pay a fair price – more than a living wage – to value the livelihoods and communities at the source of our supply chains.

WE CANNOT AFFORD TO PAY LESS THAN THEIR TRUE WORTH.
AND AFTER CENTURIES OF EXPLOITATION, IT IS NOW REQUIRED TO REINVEST IN REVITALIZING AGRICULTURE IF WE WANT TO BE SUSTAINABLE.

The established, internationally regulated voluntary sustainability standard that already embodies the principles and aims of regenerative agriculture is Organic/Bio/Öko. With origins dating back over a century in the western world (inspired and informed by traditions dating back millennia), the global movement now represented by the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM) has built upon shared values and learnings to develop an evolving codification of production, verification and marketing norms. The concept of regenerative is embedded in the philosophy and practice of organic, because organic farm management is designed to protect and nurture the land, animals, and the farmers we all depend upon. Furthermore, the transition phase from conventional to organic, in-conversion, is itself a period of intentional revitalization.
So, are regenerative and organic synonymous terms? Some say yes, but technically, no.
Organic is a legally protected term, with codified and regulated management practices that are designed to uphold ecological and social welfare. Organic agriculture also has a clearly defined set of required practices, as well as permitted non-toxic pesticides and climate-friendly fertilizers that have been scientifically demonstrated to increase yields and resilience over time; regenerative practices like crop rotations, mulching and minimizing soil disturbance are staples in organic farming.

Conversely, regenerative is not a protected term and is therefore vulnerable to greenwashing (read the fine print). Regenerative standards typically have a defined set of measurable outcomes relating to carbon sequestration in soils, and the good ones even require demonstrated progress towards set targets (something that organic regulations do not yet include), but some allow dubious methods with short-term gains but inadvertent long-term losses.

AS LEADERS IN THE TEXTILE SECTOR, A CRUCIAL QUESTION TO ASK YOURSELF IS HOW TO DIFFERENTIATE BETWEEN AUTHENTIC REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE, AND MERE IMITATION.

I OFFER YOU THIS:
Do the ends justify the means?
If the goal is to regenerate, how can we condone practices that are not themselves socially and ecologically regenerative? Can we in good conscience continue using synthetic herbicides, pesticides, fertilizers and GMOs and call it regenerative when the science has shown that, although they may appear to increase carbon capture in the short-term, they simultaneously erode long-term production capacity and undermine the ability of an ecosystem to abate and adapt to climate change?
Do the means justify the ends?
Can we in good conscience dogmatically adhere to a prescribed set of conventionalized practices and models, even when the consequences are demonstrably toxic to people and planet? Can we continue sourcing and manufacturing using practices that optimize short-term profit but are known to undermine the sustainability of the entire enterprise?
Coherence of principles, actions and targets is paramount.

THE GOAL IS THE WAY - THE WAY IS THE GOAL.