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GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD
ECOLOGY & SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

Organic Fibres

In the face of today's pressing sustainability challenges, the fashion and textile industry must embrace a paradigm shift in production and consumption. Organic fibres have emerged as a vital component, enabling an industry that proactively reduces its negative environmental impact and prioritises human well-being over short-term gains.

At the forefront of this movement is the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), ensuring transparency and accountability. To carry the ‘made with organic’ label grade, a textile product must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres, while the 'organic' label grade requires a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres. The remaining portion of fibres must meet strict criteria per GOTS requirements.

What are organic fibres?

  • Sustainable: Organic fibres are derived from organic agriculture, a regulated and certified method for sustainable land management. Organic is the only legislated standard for environmentally friendly agriculture, and it is a proven method to contribute to sustainability goals.
  • Plant or Animal based: Organic fibres can be plant-based, such as cotton, linen, or hemp, or animal-based, such as wool, silk or cashmere.
  • Free of toxic chemicals: Organic fibre production prohibits the use of harmful pesticides, herbicides, and synthetic fertilisers, all of which have been proven to negatively impact ecosystems and/or human health.
  • Non-GMO: The use of Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs) is prohibited in organic agriculture. This is due to potential and demonstrated adverse effects on human and ecosystem health associated with GMOs. Organic fibres are thus derived from agricultural systems that promote biodiversity and support ecosystem functions.

What are the benefits of organic fibres?

  • Promote Biodiversity: By eliminating toxic chemicals and synthetic fertilisers, organic fibre production promotes healthier ecosystems, reduces water pollution, and conserves biodiversity.
  • Improved human health: The absence of harmful substances in organic fibre cultivation minimises the risk of health issues that can be caused by exposure to chemical residues, both for the farmers and the end user.
  • Enhanced sustainability: Organic fibre production supports sustainable farming practises that promote soil fertility, water conservation, and long-term ecological resilience.
  • Enhanced farmer autonomy and resilience: Organic farmers, utilising botanical extracts and natural soil amendments, have less reliance on external inputs (e.g. pesticides and fertilisers). Additionally, necessary crop rotation ensures economic resiliency, and organic fibres are part of organic food systems that promote food security and healthy communities.

Why does certification matter?

  • Authenticity and Trust: Certification serves as a powerful tool to establish the authenticity of organic fibres, instilling confidence in consumers and businesses alike. It provides a reliable guarantee that the products they purchase or work with are genuinely organic, backed by rigorous requirements and independent verification. Unlike self-claims, which lack external validation, certification offers a tangible proof of integrity and builds trust in the organic supply chain.
  • Traceability: Certified organic fibres offer traceability, allowing for the tracking of the fibre's journey from the finished product back to the farm it originated from. This traceability provides transparency and accountability, ensuring that the organic claims can be verified and validated. It enables consumers and businesses to have confidence in the authenticity of the fibres.
  • Compliance: Organic fibre certification ensures compliance with regulations and standards related to organic labelling and sustainability claims. By obtaining certification, companies can demonstrate their commitment to responsible practises and avoid potential legal issues or accusations of greenwashing.
  • Transparency: Certification promotes transparency by providing clear information about the origin and production methods of the fibres, empowering consumers to make informed choices aligned with their values.

There is a common misconception that GOTS certifies raw fibres. Organic fibre production is not directly covered by the GOTS certification system, as GOTS itself does not set standards for organic fibre cultivation. Instead, the cultivation of organic fibres is under the scope of organic farming standards, many of them defined by national governments.

For organic fibre production, a certification to one of the IFOAM Family of Standards for the relevant scope of production is required. IFOAM has its own accreditation system, and the standards approved under the IFOAM family of standards are officially endorsed as organic and include both private and government regulations. Click on image to see the current IFOAM Family of Standards.

Why relying on organic fibres alone is not enough?

While organic fibres are an essential component of sustainable practises in the textile industry, relying solely on them is insufficient to achieve comprehensive sustainability goals. Here are key reasons why organic fibres are not enough:

  • Processing and Chemical Use: Even if a textile product is made from 100% organic fibres, the subsequent industrial processing stages can involve harmful chemicals and questionable practises. Common processing methods still utilise toxic substances and contribute to pollution, negating the sustainability benefits of using organic fibres even if the final product is free from residues and thus safe for the end consumer, there is no guarantee that toxic chemicals (sadly often released into the environment and handled by the workers) were not used in the production process. This is why GOTS starts with organic fibres, requires non-toxic processing, and results in clean products.
  • Working Conditions: The focus on organic fibres does not automatically address the working conditions of labourers involved in textile production. Ensuring ethical treatment, fair wages, and safe working environments for workers requires a comprehensive approach that goes beyond the organic fibre aspect.
  • Packaging: Packaging materials used in the textile industry can significantly impact the overall sustainability of products. Relying solely on organic fibres neglects the importance of eco-friendly packaging.
  • Product technical quality: technical qualities of textile fibres have an indirect impact on the environment as they directly affect the lifetime of a product, thereby affecting resource consumption and waste generation. The sole use of organic fibre does not guarantee quality.

GOTS is an all-inclusive, comprehensive standard which addresses this issue by setting strict environmental, human-rights and social criteria throughout the entire value chain. Find out about all GOTS key features:

Compliance support+
All Processing Stages
Due Diligence
Human-Rights and Social Criteria
Environmental Criteria
Traceability
Third-Party Certification
Organic Fibres