Spinning is the processing stage at which fibres are converted into yarns, usually with the help of twisting and drawing. Worsted spinning and cotton spinning employ different kinds of machinery in yarn preparation; furthermore, there is ring spinning and open-end spinning. Sometimes, synthetic fibres are blended with natural fibres at the spinning stage, as well. A textile product carrying the GOTS label must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres, a product with the label grade grade 'organic' must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres. Comber noil may become a raw material for spinning of open-end yarns in some cases.
Elements of Inspection
Since undyed organic and conventional yarns look the same, separation and identification of organic bales, tops, sliver, yarns, etc. is of utmost importance in storage and on the shopfloor. Colour coding of cans and bobbins can help, besides separate storage facilities. Training and awareness of workers is of essential importance here again.
Spinners must purchase GOTS certified raw materials and maintain records of quantities purchased. Once more, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, and appropriate transportation documentation are some other steps that should be undertaken.
Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value for residual oil of 0.5%. Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns must be heavy metal-free. Synthetic fibres, which are to be dissolved at a later processing stage, are not allowed to be used.
For the processed organic yarns sold by GOTS certified entities, the Transaction Certificates shall include information about quality parameters like micronaire and fibre length.
Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:
- Social Criteria
- Ethical Business Behaviour
- Environmental Management