Skip to main content
Global Organic Textile Standard Logo
GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD
ECOLOGY & SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

First processing stages

First processing stages

As a processing standard, certification according to GOTS begins with the first processing stage of textile fibres. For example, for cotton, ginning is the first processing stage, at which seeds are removed from cotton bolls. Other examples are retting for bast fibres (like flax, hemp, jute, kenaf, ramie, etc.). Among animal fibres, boiling and washing cocoons for silk is the first step that is covered under GOTS and for wool, scouring is the first step. If grading of wool is not covered by the organic farming certification, grading would be the first processing step in a GOTS certified entity.

Elements of Inspection

During an on-site inspection, a facility at the first processing stage should show evidence that organic and conventional fibres are never commingled to avoid contamination. This can be ensured via different storage locations, clear markings, proper storage and handling, etc. Training and awareness of workers is of paramount importance here, since raw organic and conventional fibres look the same.

Raw fibres purchased must be certified to an organic production standard that is approved in the IFOAM Family of Standards for the relevant scope of production (crop or animal production). The qualitative GMO Screening of organic cotton is required as per ISO IWA 32. Prohibited are raw fibres that originate from production projects with a persistent pattern of gross violations of the International Labour Organization (ILO) core labour norms and/or of animal welfare principles (including Mulesing) and/or land grabbing.

Receiving and validating Scope Certificates and Transaction Certificates for incoming raw fibres is of utmost importance to verify the organic status of raw materials purchased. In a GOTS certified entity, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation and appropriate transportation documentation are some other steps that need to be documented.

For the processed organic material sold by GOTS certified entities the Transaction Certificates shall include information about quality parameters like micronaire and fibre length.

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

  • Social Criteria
  • Ethical Business Behaviour
  • Environmental Management

Weiterlesen: First processing stages

Spinning

Spinning

Spinning is the processing stage at which fibres are converted into yarns, usually with the help of twisting and drawing. Worsted spinning and cotton spinning employ different kinds of machinery in yarn preparation; furthermore, there is ring spinning and open-end spinning. Sometimes, synthetic fibres are blended with natural fibres at the spinning stage, as well. A textile product carrying the GOTS label must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres, a product with the label grade grade 'organic' must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres. Comber noil may become a raw material for spinning of open-end yarns in some cases.

Elements of Inspection

Since undyed organic and conventional yarns look the same, separation and identification of organic bales, tops, sliver, yarns, etc. is of utmost importance in storage and on the shopfloor. Colour coding of cans and bobbins can help, besides separate storage facilities. Training and awareness of workers is of essential importance here again.

Spinners must purchase GOTS certified raw materials and maintain records of quantities purchased. Once more, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, and appropriate transportation documentation are some other steps that should be undertaken.

Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value for residual oil of 0.5%. Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns must be heavy metal-free. Synthetic fibres, which are to be dissolved at a later processing stage, are not allowed to be used.

For the processed organic yarns sold by GOTS certified entities, the Transaction Certificates shall include information about quality parameters like micronaire and fibre length.

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

  • Social Criteria
  • Ethical Business Behaviour
  • Environmental Management

Weiterlesen: Spinning

Weaving and knitting

Weaving and knitting

Weaving or knitting is the stage at which yarn is converted into fabric. Undyed or dyed yarns may be used to make fabrics. Non-woven fabric manufacturing techniques eliminate spinning and directly convert fibres into fabric.

Sometimes, different kinds of yarns are used in warp and weft for blending, strength, patterning, etc. Weaving is usually preceded by warping and sizing for strengthening the yarn.

Elements of Inspection

Natural sizing agents should be used. Limited usage of synthetic sizing agents is permitted as well. Machine oils coming in touch with organic yarns must be heavy metal-free.

Separation and identification of organic yarns, warp beams, fabric rolls, etc. must be ensured in storage and on the shopfloor. Training and awareness of workers is crucial here, again.

Fabric processors must purchase GOTS certified yarns and maintain records of quantities purchased. Wastage, volume reconciliation and transportation documentation shall be verified during an onsite audit.

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

  • Social Criteria
  • Ethical Business Behaviour
  • Environmental Management

Weiterlesen: Weaving and knitting

Wet-Processing

Wet-Processing

Wet-Processing is the processing stage at which textile substrate is treated with colourants and/or chemicals, collectively referred to as inputs in GOTS terminology. This includes sizing, desizing, pre-treatment, dyeing, printing (including digital printing), finishing, laundry, etc. Non-woven manufacturing, using hydro entanglement, is also a wet-processing step.

Sizing includes applying natural or chemical inputs on yarns to strengthen them, so that they can withstand the strain during the warping and weaving process. Post weaving, desizing is the process of removing sizing chemicals from the woven fabrics. This is followed by pre-treatment operations like bleaching, boiling, kiering, washing, mercerisation, optical brightening, etc. The objective is to increase absorbance and whiteness, while making the substrate (usually a fabric or yarn) ready for dyeing/printing.

Dyeing and printing operations are the process of imparting colour to the substrate using dyes, inks, pigments, etc. Some auxiliaries are also used to enhance exhaustion or uniform uptake of colour, etc.

Finishing is usually the final step in wet-processing operations. It is used to improve the look, performance, or softness of the finished textile. Sometimes, stitched garments undergo washing in laundries post manufacturing. This is also covered under the finishing section in GOTS.

Elements of Inspection

As other processes explained above, separation and identification of organic yarns, fabrics, garments, etc. is still important. Once more, training and awareness of workers is crucial.

Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of quantities, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, appropriate transportation documentation, etc. are important yet again.

Due to use of water and chemicals, this section has the highest level of associated risks and, therefore, very stringent criteria are applicable here. Chemical inputs used for wet-processing of GOTS Goods must be approved prior to their use. To know more about how to get chemical inputs approved, click here.

For sizing, at least 75% of sizing agents should be of natural origin. For pre-treatment, ammonia treatment, as well as chlorination of wool are prohibited. Only oxygen-based bleaches like peroxide, ozone, etc. are allowed.

For dyeing and printing, there are additional curbs on allergenic dyes, carcinogenic and suspected carcinogenic colourants, as well as dyes containing heavy metal. To avoid exploitation of natural resources, the use of natural dyes and auxiliaries that are derived from a threatened species listed on the Red List of the IUCN is also prohibited.

For printing, there are limits for inputs containing permanent Adsorbable Organic Halides (AOX). Additionally, printing methods using aromatic solvents, phthalates or chlorinated plastics (e.g. PVC) are prohibited.

For finishing, the use of synthetic inputs is forbidden for certain treatments. These include anti-microbial, coating, filling, stiffening, lustring, matting and weighting. At the same time, finishing methods like sand blasting, which are considered harmful to workers, are prohibited.

Wastewater Treatment by Wet Processing Units

Wastewater from all wet-processing units is treated in an internal or external functional Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). Since laws vary around the world, the most stringent legal requirement – whether local laws or GOTS criteria – is applicable. The criteria include pH, temperature, total organic content, biological oxygen demand, chemical oxygen demand, colour removal, etc. The extent of treatment required for the wastewater and sludge depends upon types of inputs being used and is evaluated by the Approved Certifiers.

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

  • Social Criteria
  • Ethical Business Behaviour
  • Environmental Management

Weiterlesen: Wet-Processing

Manufacturing

Manufacturing

In terms of GOTS terminology, manufacturing refers to the final step of production of GOTS Goods. It is also known as the cutting, making, trimming (CMT) industry. Labelling and final packaging of GOTS Goods are also covered at this step. This includes different kinds of products like garments, home-textiles, carpets, hygiene products, combined products, etc. The manufacturing operation may include elements like assembling, fabric marking, stitching, ironing, sorting, balling, filling/stuffing, etc.

Elements of Inspection

Manufacturing processes use a variety of accessories for functionality and/or fashion requirements. They must meet stringent criteria for residue of hazardous substances, following the following Restricted Substances List (RSL). To learn more about how to get accessories approved, see page How to Get Additives Approved. Alternatively, accessories certified to Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex are acceptable.

Machine oils coming in touch with organic textiles must be heavy metal-free. Separation and identification of organic products is essential. Buying GOTS certified raw materials, maintaining records of quantities, consideration of wastage, volume reconciliation, transportation documentation, etc. are necessary. 

The Certified Weight shall be the weight of GOTS certified raw materials used in the final product, after reducing wastage. Clear computation of weight of accessories and additional fibres must be available for the purpose of volume reconciliation and Transaction Certificates.

For on-product labelling, it is possible to use the licence number of the manufacturer or of the buyer. In all cases, the certified entity applying the GOTS Label shall have the labelling approved by their certification body (Labelling Release for GOTS Goods).

Some parameters are equally applicable to all processing stages under GOTS certification, like:

  • Social Criteria
  • Ethical Business Behaviour
  • Environmental Management

Weiterlesen: Manufacturing

Weitere Beiträge ...