Organic in Conversion Questions & Answers
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What is 'organic in conversion'/ 'in transition'?
'Organic in conversion' describes the process of transition from 'conventional' to organic agriculture. This process usually requires 3 years.
'Organic in conversion' and 'organic in transition' refer to the same process. -
Does GOTS allow 'organic in conversion' labelling?
The label grade 'GOTS in conversion' is permitted in GOTS, where the certifying organic production standard permits it. GOTS requires the IFOAM Family of Standards, which encompasses private and nationally owned standards. Nationally owned standards are regulated by state legislation and are outside of the scope of private organisations such as GOTS.
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How does 'in conversion' work on a farm level in combination with certification?
Moving away from 'conventional' agricultural practices to an organic management system requires a transition period referred to as 'in conversion' (IC) or 'transitional'. This transition period can take up to 3 years. During that time, farmers implement organic agricultural methods, build up soil health, and don´t use inputs prohibited in organic farming systems. Farmers are audited annually by Certification Bodies as per the requirements of the international organic production standards.
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How does 'in conversion' work for GOTS products?
If the certifying production standards allow it, organic in conversion fibres (from the farm) can be processed in GOTS certified facilities. Separate storage and processing of conventional, organic and organic in conversion products are required. There is no separate audit for GOTS in conversion products required.
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How to find GOTS 'organic in conversion' products?
Search for 'in conversion' in the free text field of the GOTS Certified Suppliers Database.
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Are there already GOTS 'organic in conversion' certified products on the market?
Yes! Read our GOTS organic in conversion stories.
Integrity measures by Global Standard gGmbH for GOTS
1. GOTS in a nutshell
- GOTS is the stringent voluntary global standard for the entire post-harvest processing of apparel and home textiles made with certified organic fibre and includes both environmental and social criteria. Key provisions include a ban on the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), highly hazardous chemicals while requiring strong social compliance management systems.
- GOTS operates as an independent non-profit organisation and sustains itself through annual fees of €150 per certified facility.
- The GOTS system includes rules, procedures, and measures to maintain and uphold integrity, which are revised regularly.
2. Rules and Framework for Integrity
- As a standard-setter, GOTS defines globally recognised requirements that ensure the organic status of textiles, from field to finished product. In addition the standard, the interpretation manual and the Conditions for the Use of GOTS Signs are integral parts of the GOTS system.
- Independent, third-party inspection audit and certification of companies. It is done through accredited Certification Bodies (CBs). These are experts in their field, and GOTS relies on their proven competence, knowledge and experience. All certification decisions are within the responsibility and purview of the CBs. GOTS does not interfere with the decisions of the independent CBs.
- Independent accreditation of CBs. GOTS has developed its own accreditation system for the approval of CBs, as well as for continuous monitoring of the approved CBs. As a prerequisite, CBs applying for approval as a GOTS certifier must already hold a valid accreditation to perform certification in accordance with ISO/IEC Guides 17011 and 17065.
- The GOTS Quality Assurance Unit (QA) oversees and implements rigorous quality control procedures.
3. Procedures for Integrity
- All participants in the GOTS system, from the smallest certified company to the largest CB, must consistently adhere to GOTS' mandatory requirements, which prevent fraud throughout the value chain.
- GOTS has a robust complaint system where any individual or organisation is able to register a complaint about perceived violations of GOTS requirements. This ensures a formalised, timely and effective means of handling and resolving any complaints raised.
- GOTS reviews all complaints rigorously and works closely with relevant partners (e.g. CBs, ABs) to conduct comprehensive, thorough investigations.
- If evidence of wrongdoing come to light, GOTS takes swift and decisive action against all implicated parties to ensure that all issues are resolved and that the responsible party is held accountable. The GOTS system goes beyond industry standards, ensuring that only authentic organic products bear the coveted GOTS label.
4. Measures for Integrity
- The following concrete measures ensure organic fiber authenticity within the GOTS value chain, with some specifically applicable to cotton:
- Fibres entering the GOTS value chain must be certified organic according to a production standard recognised by the IFOAM Family of Standards.
- Farmers/ICS groups must register in the GOTS Farm-Gin registry before their fibre are permitted to enter the GOTS system. Currently implemented in India, this requirement will soon be in effect globally.
- All incoming raw material has to be reported to GOTS along with traceability to the respective farm group, including region, state and province of origin. Wherever the production standard provides for it, the TCs are required to be additionally submitted.
- Raw cotton may not travel more than 500 km from the farm to the certified gin. This shorter trade chain protects vulnerable points and optimises the process for buyers.
- GOTS approved CBs must verify the Farmers/ICS groups in the farm-gin registry before issuing lint TCs.
- CBs must verify the Farm Scope and Transaction Certificates (SCs and TCs) of all materials entering the GOTS value chain.
- CBs must validate relevant traceability and transport documentation.
- CBs conduct mandatory testing of all seed cotton for genetically modified organisms using ISO IWA 32 protocol, performed by qualified testing laboratories (e.g., ISO 17025), and further tests (such as pesticide residue testing as per section 5.2.7 of standard version 7.0), either randomly or in case of suspicion of contamination or non-compliance, based on the risk assessment by the CBs.
- Before issuing any TCs, CBs under GOTS must conduct a rigorous assessment including a mandatory plausibility check (volume reconciliation). First processing stage TCs are only issued by CBs after additional validity checks, such as first processing site capacities, stock positions, full traceability evidence back to the farm as well as verified financial transactions between concerned parties.
- To strengthen integrity and traceability, GOTS also requires that the Farm TC number appears on the first GOTS TC at the ginning stage. The TC must state the origin for raw material, including region, state, and province. This effectively traces material back to the field and adds another layer of accountability to GOTS-certified fibre.
- CBs perform unannounced audits of gins where there is a high perception of risk.
- The GOTS Quality Assurance Unit (QA) additionally performs the following tasks to maintain integrity and transparency:
- QA performs a comprehensive review of ginner applications in the GOTS database.
- QA ensures that certified gins are located within a 500-kilometer radius of the farm groups or farms supplying the raw fibres.
- QA organises, annually, residual chemical testing of certified products that have been randomly picked up from retail stores across the globe to confirm compliance with GOTS criteria.
- QA periodically sample lint cotton from ginners to assess GMO presence.
- QA regularly shares a list of potential high-risk entities with all CBs.
- QA performs random checks of SCs, TCs, and Letters of Approval issued by CBs.
- Bans
If an investigation uncovers evidence of fraud, the company will be excluded from the GOTS system, in strict accordance with the established complaint procedure. Additionally, the findings will be publicly disclosed on the official GOTS website. - Withdrawal of TCs
Transaction Certificates (TCs) linked to fraud will be revoked by the relevant CBs, and any finished products will be prohibited from carrying the GOTS label. - Upholding Integrity Through Collaboration with Stakeholders
- GOTS cultivates a robust and continuous dialogue with both fellow certification scheme owners and key stakeholders within the organic industry, nurturing collaboration across a spectrum of important issues.
- GOTS has an ongoing collaboration with Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Textile Exchange to provide the textile sector with an overview of global laboratories that can reliably conduct GMO testing as per the ISO IWA 32:2019 protocol – a common language among laboratories worldwide to screen for the potential presence of genetically modified (GM) cotton along the organic cotton value chain.
- GOTS co-hosted the Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference in Indore, India in February 2023 with partners Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and IFOAM – Organics International. The conference focused on collaborative solutions to industry-wide issues of transparency, integrity and capacity.
- GOTS is collaborating with the European Space Agency (ESA) on a demonstrator project that employs AI and satellite imagery to detect organic versus non-organic cotton fields, enhancing the monitoring of organic cotton cultivation systems.
- GOTS is in the process of developing a central database that will trace the origins of organic materials across the entire GOTS chain of custody. This database will cover the journey from the raw material's source, through the initial processing stages, and extend all the way to the final product. To ensure the standard's independence from economic influences, a portion of the development costs is being covered by public funding.
Weiterlesen: Integrity measures by Global Standard gGmbH for GOTS
Philosophy
Vision
Our vision is that organic textiles will become a significant part of everyday life, enhancing people's lives and the environment.
Mission
Our mission is the development, implementation, verification, protection and promotion of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). This standard stipulates requirements throughout the supply chain for both ecological and labour conditions in textile and apparel manufacturing using organically produced raw materials. Organic production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replenishes soil fertility without the use of toxic, persistent pesticides or synthetic fertilisers. In addition, it includes welfare standards for animal husbandry and prohibits genetically modified organisms.
Development and Implementation
In developing GOTS, we set strict – and binding – requirements regarding ecological and social parameters. In doing so, we take into consideration the need for a standard that is practicable for industrial production and appropriate for a wide range of products. Taking both aspects into account, we define organic textiles as containing a minimum content of organic fibres, being processed with the least possible environmental impact, under strict controls on natural and synthetic chemical inputs and with respect for labour conditions.
GOTS is a dynamic standard, we foster constant progress towards the development of better textile processing methods. In this process of continuous improvement, we collaborate with international stakeholders, including the textile and apparel industry, chemical suppliers, organic farming and environmental organisations, workers' rights groups and labour unions. We believe that a voluntary global standard, set in partnership with international stakeholder communities, ensures widespread global acceptance. In contrast to mere national standards, it also helps to remove barriers to international trade.
The implementation of GOTS reconciles the need of the textile industry for one global standard with consumers' desire for transparency. The increasing worldwide recognition and acceptance of GOTS confirms that these needs are being met. Our initial objective was to harmonise several different standards into one coherent label; this has become a reality. We continue to work to ensure that this common global standard satisfies the expectations of all stakeholders.
Verification
A standard is only as effective as it is credible. In addition to trust, verification is crucial for building credibility. We entrust verification only to selected professional and independent certification bodies. The certification bodies regularly audit all parties involved in the manufacturing of GOTS-certified textiles through comprehensive on-site inspections, in order to verify that all GOTS environmental and social requirements are met.
Protection
In order to further protect GOTS' credibility, we investigate and impose sanctions whenever there is evidence of misleading use of the GOTS label or reference to GOTS certification.
Promotion
As a global network, we have representatives working to promote GOTS around the world. For us, team spirit means more than mutual respect, understanding and trust; it means working together to achieve solutions.
Respect for both people and the environment drives us.
Our organisation maintains a flat structure and aims to minimise administrative costs. The GOTS programme is self-financed. All income generated is used to reach our objectives.
Aim
The aim of the standard is to define world-wide recognised requirements that ensure the certified organic status of textiles, from the harvesting of the raw fibre, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide credible assurance to the end consumer. Textile processors and manufacturers are thus enabled to export their organic fabrics and garments with one certification accepted in all major markets.
Sustainable Development
We see ourselves as contributing to sustainable development. Certification to GOTS helps to ensure compliance with each of the 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals, and actively cooperating with all relevant stakeholders.
Our organisation maintains a flat structure and aims to minimise administrative costs. As registered non-profit the GOTS programme is self-financed. All income is used to reach our vision and mission.
![Graphic how GOTS supports the 17 Sustainable Development Goals](/images/gots-images/gots-images-pages/200916_gots_instagram_sdgs.jpg)
The GOTS Story
The Start
The starting point for the development of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was the Intercot Conference 2002 in Düsseldorf (Germany). In a workshop, attended by representatives of organic cotton producers, the textile industry, consumers, standard organisations and certifiers, the need for a harmonised organic textile standard that would be globally recognised, was discussed. At that time, numerous different standards and draft standards existed in the niche market of organic textiles. These different standards represented an obstacle to the international exchange and recognition of organic textiles. Simultaneously, they caused confusion among (the few) producers, retailers and consumers who were interested in this field.
As a result of the workshop, the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard was founded with the aim to continuously work on harmonising the various different standards and approaches, as well as to develop a set of global standards.
Since 2002, a number of organisations and experts have periodically participated in this work. A compromise was needed to find consensus over points that some organisations considered to be 'non-negotiable'. Not all standard organisations that participated in the process ended up signing the 'Agreement' formally establishing the Working Group.
The International Working Group constituted of the four founding organisations:
- International Association Natural Textile Industry (IVN)
- Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA)
- Organic Trade Association (OTA)
- Soil Association (SA)
Finally, after four years of negotiation, the "Global Organic Textile Standard" was established in 2006 and the first certification completed.
Taking into account the demand from the retail market to show their compliance with GOTS by having a logo on certified organic garments, the International Working Group finally developed such a label. It decided on its usage and on the main features of the licensing system at its meeting at Biofach in February 2008. During the IFOAM textile conference in Modena, Italy, in June 2008, the label was presented to the public for the first time.
The Main Steps Developing the GOTS System
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Intercot, Düsseldorf
August 2002
Presentation of a synopsis of leading organic textile standards at the 'Global Standards' workshop; formation of the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard -
Innatex, Wallau
July 2004
Four standards organizations - IVN, OTA, Soil Association and JOCA - sign an "agreement" that defines the common mission and decision-making and implementation procedures.
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Intercot, Chicago
May 2005
The four organisations agree on the 1st version of the Global Organic Textile Standard and its implementation scheme. -
Launch GOTS certification system
October 2006
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IFOAM Conference, Modena
June 2008
Version 2.0 of GOTS and the GOTS label are introduced to the public. -
Foundation of the Global Standard gemeinnützige GmbH
August 2008
Foundation of the Global Standard gemeinnützige GmbH (Global Standard non-profit limited liability company), in charge of managing the Global Organic Textile Standard Programme.
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Launch GOTS Manual for Implementation
December 2008
Introduction of the ‘Manual for the Implementation of GOTS’ that provides official interpretation guidance and clarifications for specific GOTS criteria. -
2,000 GOTS facilities
December 2008
Almost 2,000 facilities are certified under GOTS.
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Release Approval Procedure & Requirements for Certification Bodies
May 2009
The ‘Approval Procedure and Requirements for Certification Bodies’, defining GOTS specific accreditation requirements, is released. -
Release Licensing and Labelling Guide
June 2009
The ‘Licensing and Labelling Guide’, containing the final licence conditions, is published. -
2,800 GOTS facilities
January 2010
More than 2,800 facilities are certified under GOTS and 12 certification bodies are approved to offer GOTS certification.
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Launch Certified Suppliers Database
March 2010
A database containing the GOTS certified entities and their product categories is introduced on the re-launched website.
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GOTS Version 3.0
March 2011
Version 3.0 of GOTS is published. -
3,000 GOTS facilities
January 2013
The number of facilities certified under GOTS exceeds 3,000.
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GOTS Version 4.0
March 2014
Version 4.0 of GOTS is published. -
840,000 workers in GOTS facilities
January 2016
More than 840,000 workers in more than 3,800 facilities certified under GOTS.
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1.4 Million workers in GOTS facilities
January 2017
More than 1.4 Million workers in more than 4,600 facilities certified under GOTS.
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GOTS Version 5.0
March 2017
Version 5.0 of GOTS is published. -
1.8 Million workers in GOTS facilities
January 2018
More than 1.8 Million workers in 5,024 facilities certified under GOTS.
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New GOTS logo
March 2018
A revised GOTS Logo is released. The old logo continues to be a registered trademark of GOTS, with the change to the new one being gradual. -
2.02 Million workers in GOTS facilities
January 2019
More than 2.02 Million workers in 5,760 facilities certified under GOTS.
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7,700 GOTS facilities
January 2020
More than 7,700 certified facilities reported under GOTS (a growth of 35% from 2018 and over 3,10 million workers covered under the Standard in 2019. Over 23,800 chemical inputs are approved for GOTS processing.
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GOTS Version 6.0
April 2020
GOTS version 6.0 and corresponding Implementation Manual released. -
10,300 GOTS facilities
February 2021
New high: More than 10,300 GOTS certified facilities in 2020, an increase of 34% with more than 3 million workers in 72 countries
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12,388 GOTS facilities
February 2022
12,338 certified facilities (+19%) were reported in 2021, despite the continuing limitations of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Implementation Status of GOTS Certified Facilities
![graphic displaying growth in GOTS certified facilities](/images/gots-images/certified-facilities.jpg)
Since its introduction in 2006, GOTS has gained universal recognition, has made numerous similar standards that previously existed redundant and has become the leading standard for the processing of textile goods using organic fibres, including environmentally oriented, technical and social criteria.
As the International Working group declared it a condition for certification bodies to drop any own organic textile standard, in order to be approved for GOTS certification, not only the respective ‘Founding Organisations‘ standards, but also numerous standards set and used by certification bodies finally disappeared from the market.
Thus, GOTS replaced the:
- North American Fiber Standard - Organic Trade Association (USA)
- Guidelines 'Naturtextil IVN certified' - International Association Natural Textile Industry (Germany)
- Standards for Processing and Manufacture of Organic Textiles - Soil Association (England)
- Certification and Standards for Organic Cotton Products - Japan Organic Cotton Association (Japan)
- EKO Sustainable Textile Standard
- Control Union Certifications (formerly Skal International, Netherlands)
- Standards for Organic Textiles - Ecocert (France)
- Organic Textile Standard - ICEA (Italy)
- Standards for Organic Textiles - ETKO (Turkey)
- Organic Fiber Standards - Oregon Tilth (USA)
- Standards for Processing of Organic Textile Products - OIA (Argentina)
After the enormous growth of certified facilities between 2006 and 2009 (2006: 27 certified facilities, 2008: 1,977, 2009: 2,811), a consolidation phase was entered in 2010, with a small decline (to 2.754) in certified facilities by the end of 2010. Besides the economic difficulties facing the textile industry in general, the introduction of the Certified Suppliers Database in early 2010 (that had more than 120,000 search requests in its first year) meant that buyers (brands, retailers and their wholesalers) first looked for suppliers who were already certified before considering that new suppliers and supply chains acquire certification. This meant that the existing certified entities were receiving more orders for certified textiles than before, although data was not collected to quantify this effect. In 2012, the number of certified facilities started growing again partly because licensees worldwide are getting more and more diverse orders for GOTS goods, and thus, they apply certification for more production lines, processors and manufacturers.
Since 2014, there has been a remarkable growth in certified GOTS facilities. In 2018, the number increased by 14.6% from the preceding year. This can be attributed to consumers and retailers recognising and accepting GOTS as a premier sustainable standard that meets ecological, as well as social criteria. It is the preferred standard for certified organic textiles. We are aware of the responsibilities that come with this and remain committed to pursue the path laid down by the founding organisations of GOTS.
The entities participating in the certification system include processing, manufacturing and trading companies along the entire textile supply chain and range from small-scale units up to the largest vertical integrated enterprises, mainly producing for the North American, European and Japanese markets. The growing interest of leading retailers and brands in garments which are produced and certified according to the GOTS has created increasing demand for GOTS products.
At present, sixteen certifiers are approved under the GOTS scheme, assuring applicants worldwide accessibility to the certification system. Find contact details of all approved certifiers here.
Summary of the GOTS-Story
The global nature of the textile industry required a common approach to the certification and labelling of organic textiles, in order to move them from a niche to a mainstream market and to generate awareness, as well as recognition in the retail market and among end consumers. The four founding organisations behind GOTS took on the responsibility of developing a global standard and adapting it in preference to their own 'home-grown' schemes. The GOTS label has both benefited from and contributed to a remarkable growth in the use of organic fibres (especially cotton). The Global Organic Textile Standard now sets the benchmark for an international common understanding of environmentally friendly production systems and social accountability in the organic textile sector. In the future, Global Standard gGmbH will continue to do its best to maintain GOTS as a transparent and reliable system, on which the industry, retailers and consumers can rely.